Roads to Ride – Croce D’Aune

Sunday, 24 February 2013

Croce d'Aune

As the ninth part of a series to explore the famous roads of cycling, here is the Croce d’Aune on the edge of the Italian Alps. The idea is to discover the road and its place in the world, whether as part of cycling’s history or to look at the route on a day without racing and it is open to all.

The Croce d’Aune isn’t the highest road nor the hardest. But it has been a place of disaster and invention and it is in a scenic ride in its own right. If last week’s piece on France’s Col de la République was partly a celebration of the derailleur, the Croce d’Aune is the birthplace of the quick release lever and more. In fact a wheel change on this climb arguably led to the invention and perfection of modern cycle componentry as we know it today.

The Route
Croce d'Aune profile
The SP473 Via Croce d’Aune climbs out of Pedavena. It is 8.5km long and averages 7.8%. There are other routes to the top from the other side but this is the most famous route. Some steep ramps mark the start of trhe climb but after one kilometre the road steadies to a regular grade and via a series of ramps and hairpins, tracks the flanks of a valley to the top.

The Feel
This is a quiet and ordinary road, you could be almost anywhere in Italy, the Alps or the Apennines. It’s scenic and wooded with views of the high mountains around. It’s a pleasant climb although the steep start steals momentum and rhythm. Daniel Friebe’s Mountain High has it right:

An unremarkable mountain pass, overhung and overshadowed by many higher and more magnificent Dolomite peaks, submerged in woodland and, it seems, anonymity.

The road is wide and there’s not much traffic because if the route serves villages above Pedavena, most of the traffic takes the larger and easier roads in the Cismon valley. As you approach the top the views open up and the road zigzags to scale the final part of the ridge that marks the pass. But if this climb is not fearsome nor legendary for the racing it is still satisfying. Pace yourself and it’s a fast climb that satisfies because you can tame it. It feels fast, this is not 90 minutes of Stelvio-esque introspection and exhaustion, no, you’re in charge here.

The Birth of Campagnolo
Tullio Campagnolo
An engineer and cyclist Tullio Campagnolo liked to tinker with bikes, even building his own frames. On 11 November 1927 – Armistice Day – he was leading the GP della Vittoria up the Croce d’Aune but needed to change gear. Unlike Velocio in France, Campagnolo was riding a more traditional bike where the gear was changed by reversing the back wheel. Each side of the hub flange had a single speed gear, one side for uphill and one for downhill and the rider would stop, undo the wing nuts, flip the wheel 180° and lock the wheel back in place. It took 30 seconds for the skilled rider. But Campagnolo was riding in bitter cold and his hands were numb. His fingers could not turn the nuts and as his rivals passed him he uttered the legendary phrase:

Bisogno cambiá qualcossa de drio
Something’s got to change at the back here

That change was the quick release lever. Campagnolo spent time working in designs and models but invented the quick release lever which is still used today, proving the maxim of necessity being the mother of all invention. Campagnolo set up a company and with the quick release lever being highly sought after moved to perfect gearing. First came the Cambio Corsa, a system with two rods on the rear seat stay used to shift the chain from sprockets on the rear wheel. No longer did the rider have to change wheel. Although this was not a new invention it was a big improvement. But the leap came in 1949 when Campagnolo launched the Gran Sport groupset. Here a whole range of products were offered including an efficient parallelogram rear mech. Others, like French company Huret, offered components but Campagnolo flourished.
Tullio Campagnolo died in 1983 but the Vicenza company launched the Croce d’Aune groupset in commemoration.

Gran Sport

At the top of the pass there’s a memorial to Campagnolo and the incident of him standing next to his upturned bike is commemorated.

The Giro
The climb has featured in the Giro, notably in the 100th edition in 2009 but as it’s not the toughest climb it’s not proved decisive for the race. The climb is also a descent in the Gran Fondo Sportful. For years the ride was known as the Gran Fondo Campagnolo so this climb held a special place in the route although given it features at around the 200km point few riders would celebrate the moment. The climb is also home to a motorsport hill climb where the fast ramps and tight hairpins make it a good test of engine and driving skill alike.

Say It

The second C is soft so it’s “crow-chey” and d’Aune is “Down”. It sounds like an Italian saying “crouch down”.

The Beer, the Campaign, The Election
Birra Pedavena Beppe GrilloThe start town of Pedavena is home to a brewery that’s a tale of the Italian economy and today’s elections all in one go. Started in 1897 the firm was sold to Dutch brewing giant Heineken and then closed by the owners in 2004. Local protests saw signatures gathered and the comedian and satirist Beppe Grillo got involved. “Nobody can touch the brewery” proclaimed Grillo on his popular blog. It wasn’t the start of Grillo’s campaign but it was a transitional stage and today he’s standing for election in Italy’s parliamentary elections. In 2006 the brewery was reopened with local capital and workers to make Birra Pedavena independently. It’s worth a visit as it’s more than some tanks, the place glistens with shiny copper and brass and a beer hall with an arty touch than a drinks factory.

Access
Feltre is a good place to stay being scenic and welcoming. The Croce d’Aune is worth riding in its own right but also because it leads you into the Belluno national park in the Dolomites. The whole area offers excellent cycling with Monte Grappa as the backdrop. There’s the Passo Duran, the Passo di Rolle and much more within range and you can reach the San Pellegrino pass (not to be confused with the other place in Lombardia where the bottled spring water comes from) and the mighty Passo Pordoi.

If you visit and the weather is bad then there’s still plenty to do as the area is home to a lot of Italy’s cycle manufacturers. Wilier Triestina are near in Rossano Veneto, Campagnolo is in Vicenza, in the nearby Treviso you will find Pinarello. The Veneto region is also the place to pick up accessories as it’s the home of backwards shoemakers Sidi and Gaerne as well as Northwave and Diadora. It’s also the birthplace of Luxxotica, the Italian company that owns Oakley. And if you or others want some non-cycling gear then the area is home to Benetton, Diesel, Marzotto and Stefanel too.

Part I – Alpe d’Huez
Part II – The Ghisallo
Part III – Mont Ventoux
Part IV – Col de la Madone
Part V – Col du Soulor
Part VI – Passo Dello Stelvio
Part VII – Mont Aigoual
Part VIII – Col de la République
Part IX – Croce d’Aune
Part X – Strade Bianche
Part XI – Col d’Eze
Part XII – The Poggio
Part XIII – Arenberg Cobbles
Part XIV – Col du Tourmalet
Part XV – Côte de La Redoute
Part XVI – Col du Pin Bouchain
Part XVII – Puy de Dôme
Part XVIII – La Planche des Belles Filles
Part XIX – Col du Lautaret
Part XX – Col du Palaquit
Part XXI – Champs Elysées
Part XXII: The Col du Galibier
Part XXIII: The Lacets de Montvernier
Part XXIV: Hautacam
Part XXV: The Schelde Bike Path
Part XXVI: Col de Marie-Blanque
Part XXVII: Jebel Al Akhdar
Part XXVIII: Genting Highlands

Kevin G February 24, 2013 at 2:22 pm

As always a great little article
Just a minor typo “, a system with two roads on the rear seat stay” think you mean two rods.
Keep the climbs coming – You may soon have your own on line Mountain High,

The Inner Ring February 24, 2013 at 5:10 pm

Thanks.

RJ February 24, 2013 at 4:32 pm

A great climb but an even better region, you can do this and check the Campagnolo memorial and then go on to do much more in a ride. Agree with Feltre although you don’t stay for the nightlife.

The Inner Ring February 24, 2013 at 5:10 pm

Feltre’s a scenic place but with an old feel. It’s a good base but there are others. Bassano is probably more lively at night.

Alberto February 24, 2013 at 5:57 pm

Some adjustments:
– Campagnolo’s town is Vicenza, not Vincenza;
– it’s Wilier Triestina with only an “l” (it’s an acronyme for W l’Italia Libera E Redenta).

Duncan February 24, 2013 at 6:05 pm

Enjoying this series.

Espresso February 24, 2013 at 7:48 pm

+1

Impressive to link the elections and Grillo to this climb.

Piotr February 24, 2013 at 9:09 pm

A good climb and nice read. I did this last June when the wild boar runs to pass me on the road. I do not know who was more scared! The Campagnolo memorial is large and special, Italy has many cycling statues but this is one of the best.

jonnyvelo February 24, 2013 at 10:13 pm

For me (and my family) this area is cycling Nirvana. We stay in Vittorio Veneto and enjoy a vast area of enjoyable and challenging cycling, great food and culture (particularly architecture and music) – ‘who could ask for anything more’. We can’t stop going back – June and July this year – can’t wait.

Anonymous February 26, 2013 at 11:53 am

Second that! Vittorio Veneto is so stunning that we [on a tandem] let ourselves get dropped from the lead pack in a race just to have a better look as we passed through!! We had to work hard to catch the others over the next two passes, and we suffered miserably, but it was well worth it.

Michael and Marijana Stechow February 26, 2013 at 11:54 am

Sorry for being ‘anonymous’ in the last post! That was us regarding Vittorio Veneto.

Chromatic Dramatic February 24, 2013 at 11:46 pm

Thanks for another great write up. Great to see many great rides that I don’t about, and would some day love to ride.

Question for you, will future editions of this extend beyond Europe, or even other parts of Europe from the traditional cycle countries? Obviously there are many many fantastic roads in the world to ride.

Also are all the rides your featuring climbs?

The Inner Ring February 25, 2013 at 10:13 am

They’re not all climbs, the strade bianche are next week and it’s inevitable I include some pavé from Roubaix and more. As for location, they’ll probably be European as I don’t know many other famous roads around the world, the sports history has yet to make roads beyond Europe as famous and amongst the few that are becoming famous like Willunga in Australia or some regular finishes of the Tour of California I’ve yet to ride them.

Chromatic Dramatic February 25, 2013 at 11:46 pm

Great. Thanks for that. Was just interested to know.

The Dude February 27, 2013 at 8:07 am

Hi,
I sent you an email with some pics of the Montepaschi Strade Bianche from last year as I was there to spectate. I have more if you could use them for that post.
I also rode in the L’Eroica last year and have pics from that I can share.
Love your site.

Bazil Brush February 25, 2013 at 12:21 am

Great series, building a collection of roads I am really looking forward to riding

Just a slight inconstancy, at the beginning you talk of a puncture but in the main text you refer to a gear change leading to the quick release lever and thus to Campag.

The Inner Ring February 25, 2013 at 10:15 am

Sorry, it was the gear change. The sport later returned to this climb with the Giro in 1964 when there were a reported 300 punctures on the descent of the Croce d’Aune to Pedavena. A bizarre incident that lives on. Fortunately the road is surfaced, wide and smooth so no such problems today.

Dave February 25, 2013 at 11:53 am

You’d never get so many riders with punctures these days, unless of course you were riding a sportive in Scotland or maybe a Tour de France stage…

Mike February 25, 2013 at 7:05 am
Larry T. February 25, 2013 at 8:59 am

More details and a nice (but not very large) photo of the memorial here
http://www.campyonly.com/history.html
Thanks to our friends at CampyOnly!
(Disclaimer: we advertise with CampyOnly but owners of bicycles with parts from those “other people” are always welcome on our tours)

Stephen_M February 25, 2013 at 10:59 am

Great story – I don’t think I’d ever heard all of it before. I remember being a poor school-boy and saving hard for Groce D’Aune components. I still have some in the garage somewhere… Record was out of my financial league at that time and its looks were well beyond anything else on the market!

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